How to Convert an Outlet Pendant Light to Hardwired
By Spark & Bell - Handmade Lighting UK | Custom Pendants | Published: 2026-10-28
Category: How-to Guides
Learn how to safely convert a plug-in pendant light into a permanent hardwired fixture. Step-by-step guide with tips for the Ellis and Rian pendant lights.
Quick Answer
You can safely convert an outlet pendant light to a hardwired fixture by removing the plug and cord, connecting the fixture wires to a junction box, and mounting the canopy. This works for most plug-in pendants, including the Ellis and Rian models.
Why Convert a Plug-In Pendant to Hardwired?
Hardwiring a pendant light gives you a cleaner look—no visible cord or outlet box—and lets you place the fixture exactly where you want it, even if there's no nearby socket. It also meets building codes for permanent installations in kitchens, dining rooms, and hallways.
The trade-off is that you lose the ability to simply unplug and move the light. You'll also need basic electrical skills and the right tools. If you're not comfortable working with live wires, hire a licensed electrician.
What You'll Need for the Conversion
Before starting, gather: a voltage tester, wire strippers, a screwdriver, wire nuts, a junction box (if one isn't already in place), and the pendant light itself. Both the Ellis and Rian pendant lights come with a plug and cord that can be removed. Check your local electrical code—some areas require a box rated for the fixture weight.
Step-by-Step Conversion Process
- Turn Off Power and Verify It's Off: Switch off the breaker that controls the circuit you'll be working on. Use a voltage tester to confirm no power is reaching the junction box or existing wires. Never skip the voltage test—even with the breaker off, wires can hold a charge.
- Remove the Plug and Cord from the Pendant: Unscrew the canopy or cap at the top of the pendant to access the wire connections. Snip the cord near the plug, then strip about 1/2 inch of insulation from the two (or three) inner wires. For the Ellis or Rian with a fabric cable, be careful not to fray the outer sheath. If the cord has a ground wire (green or bare copper), keep it intact—you'll need it for the hardwired connection.
- Prepare the Junction Box: Install a junction box in the ceiling if one isn't already present. Run the building's supply wires (black, white, and ground) into the box, leaving about 6 inches of slack. Secure the box to a joist or use a retrofit brace. The box must be rated for the weight of your pendant—check the fixture's manual for weight specs.
- Connect the Pendant Wires to the Supply Wires: Match the pendant's black wire to the supply's black (hot), white to white (neutral), and ground to ground. Twist each pair together clockwise with a wire nut. Give a gentle tug to ensure the connection is tight. A loose wire nut is a common cause of flickering lights—always double-check each connection.
- Mount the Canopy and Test the Light: Tuck the wires neatly into the junction box, then screw the canopy flush against the ceiling. Restore power at the breaker and flip the switch. If the light doesn't turn on, turn off power again and recheck your connections. If the light flickers or hums, the neutral may be loose—re-examine that wire nut first.
Products That Work Well for This Conversion
- "Ellis" Pendant Light - (Outlet): The Ellis pendant has a bell-shaped shade with ribbed seams and a mottled pattern that adds texture. Its simple cord and plug design make it straightforward to remove and wire directly to a junction box.
"Ellis" Pendant Light - (Outlet) - "Rian" Stemmed Pendant Light - (Outlet): The Rian pendant uses a reeded recycled-plastic shade and is available with a fabric cable or solid stem option. If you choose the fabric cable version, you can detach the plug and use the existing cord for hardwiring; the stemmed version may require different mounting hardware.
"Rian" Stemmed Pendant Light - (Outlet)
